HOW TO SHOOT ANIMALS, CHILDREN AND MOTORBIKES
Not with a gun – with a camera. Flexibility is a prerequisite.
I often find people giving me strange looks when I’m lying on the ground trying to get that shot. When I struggle to get back on my feet, they chuckle. They don’t know how hard that is with my creaky old knees, and I wish there were an easier way, but you can’t get decent shots of kids and animals and wild things without observing one very simple rule:
You have to get down to their level
It’s easy to see in these examples what the right level is for kids: eye level. In a sense, photos like these resemble portraits so the same rules apply.
If you take shots from above, you won’t get the same impact unless it’s a macro shot of an insect or a shot of a tiger passing under the tree you’ve climbed up to save yourself.
You’ll also distort the perspective, especially with small children looking up at you – their heads tend be a bit on the big side to begin with but a shot from above will highlight that tendency. By getting down to their level, you avoid those problems. The technique works just as well for animals:
Some of the animals we find around our cities are pretty tame, and that’s a big help. The water dragon is used to people and doesn’t scare when you move in close, as long as you do it calmly and slowly.
The slow technique even works with a bunch of Pelicans – up to a point. I stumbled upon these guys down at Balmoral beach one morning. Of course, it’s useful to have a camera handy when you get lucky.
OK, we’ve covered children and animals – where do motorbikes come in? With motorbikes, cars and big animals, you often get a more dramatic shot when you get down low enough for the camera to look up at these things.
As you can see from the Triumph 675 Triple below, that’s how you can make a stationary bike look fast and dangerous.
This was shot at 18mm, the widest angle I had on the lens. A wider angle would add yet more drama by exaggerating the perspective, but the key is getting down as low as you can. If you like shooting exotic motorbikes and cars, it might pay to add a Yoga mat to your kit bag.









45 Responses to “HOW TO SHOOT ANIMALS, CHILDREN AND MOTORBIKES” - Add Yours
May 11th, 2010 at 10:11 am
Great Job!!!!!!
May 12th, 2010 at 12:37 am
Thanks for the tips, Tim. I love the last two photos.
May 12th, 2010 at 12:37 am
Thanks for the tips, Kim. I love the last two photos.
May 12th, 2010 at 1:09 am
Love the bike! I have always wanted to photograph one. Yet to do so.
May 12th, 2010 at 1:12 am
I know exactly what you mean. Sometimes to get the perfect angle of perspective you have do a lot of the work. Contorting your body or laying on the ground is just sometimes what it takes to get a great photograph.
http://www.grtaylor2.com has more articles about the basics of photography. Enjoy!
May 12th, 2010 at 3:11 am
Thanks for your article. Would you mind writing one about shooting a tennis match?? With things like where to seat, what focal length, when to shoot, how to behave XD, etc. I
May 12th, 2010 at 4:51 am
simple, easy… nice… Not complicated.
May 12th, 2010 at 7:03 am
Thanks for the feedback, guys. Can’t help with the tennis match, sorry. When I’m near a court, I usually have a racket in my hand.

Kim
May 12th, 2010 at 8:53 am
Thanks, Tim.
May 12th, 2010 at 12:44 pm
I don’t have a dslr camera but I am only using a digital camera. I understand that if taking snapshots to children and animals, I have to get down to their level. That was my mistake because my shots really don’t have impact.
May 12th, 2010 at 1:13 pm
Thanks Much this is very helpful!
May 12th, 2010 at 10:44 pm
Although I heartily agree with all of your techniques, theres a few quick additions… especially relating to the kids and the motorcycles…
Best option is to step back and use a tele lens so that you are getting less of that distracting backgrounds.
The Triumph is a nice bike, but the car coming out of its wheel is very distracting.
Watching backgrounds is a very important tool to doing all of these.
Thanks for posting.. takes guts!
May 13th, 2010 at 1:46 am
That´s why a camera with a tilting LCD (like Nikon D500) helps a lot!
May 13th, 2010 at 2:35 am
Great composition! Love the dancing pelicans. All of these would benefit with a blurred background. Try aperature priority and open in up. The backgrounds will blur with the decreased depth of field and the subjects will “pop”.
May 13th, 2010 at 4:21 am
Agree with Dan above… I had noticed the same things, but you beat me to it.
One more piece, don’t be afraid to use a little flash in daylight. Most cameras now will adjust flash exposure to the right combination of amient light vs. flash. A little fill flash on the kids faces in the above shots would give them a little more life and would also put a little catchlight in their eyes. Joe McNally calls this the “Killer Flick of Light”
However, you did capture kids just being kids, and that’s what makes shooting kid photos a lot of fun.
Thanks for sharing!
btw… I did a blog post a little while back about shooting kid’s candids. Click on my name to jump to my blog, but you’ll need check my older posts to find it.
May 13th, 2010 at 4:40 am
Go karts are even harder. Those things are like 12″ high. It would have been nice to see some tips on the motorbikes being shot while moving.
May 14th, 2010 at 2:09 am
Wow! The image of the two kids on the chair is stunning. Full of character and emotion.
May 14th, 2010 at 2:10 am
Thanks for sharing this article!!!
In case you are shooting at kids, what kind of focus do you usually use? let´s supose that you have 3 children playing… Thanks!!!
May 14th, 2010 at 2:53 am
Thanks for the tips but it will be more helpful if we make children and birds in one, bikes and cars in second category. In first category both objects are moving, ya it is hard to make them freeze for the picture. They keep moving. How I can handle that?
May 14th, 2010 at 3:13 am
I was always getting my knees and sometimes my whole front dirty so I went a bought a small tarp for $10 bucks and keep it in the truck for just such a purpose. It’s app 5′x7′ and folds pretty small, it comes in handy on wet ground too. Great tips Kim. Nice shots as well.
May 14th, 2010 at 4:08 am
Very good advice Kim. I think what makes getting down low so appealing, besides all the things you mentioned, is that it gives the photo added interest. We don’t normally see things from this angle so when we do it automatically makes the picture more interesting. Try doing this though at a bike rally. People tend to look at you like your a little crazy. However that changes quickly when they see some of the pictures you can get from that angle.
Thanks again for the tips, very practical advice that makes a big impact. It really is something so simple yet few people do it, at least the average person and it something anyone can do with any type of camera.
Tim Wemple



http://www.bikerallyphotography.com
May 14th, 2010 at 4:35 am
Great technique, here is my attempt where I use this.
May 14th, 2010 at 5:55 am
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mustafakhayat/4543872994/
May 14th, 2010 at 12:31 pm
In shooting pets, it is great to get to know their personalities. I had two cats, Casey and Whitey. Whitey was my model. I could go around her and take many shots of her and she would not bat an eye. Casey would run as you aimed the camera at her and you learned stealth photography. Whitey ran away never to be seen again. Not that Casey is queen of the house, she lets me take her picture more now. But she will still bold if you take to long. But in the end, I think I got good ones of both my girls. But it took practice.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kitkaphotogirl/sets/72157602787221324/detail/
May 14th, 2010 at 1:34 pm
And sometimes it’s not just the getting up again that’s the problem – if the ground’s wet, muddy or worse, you’re not going to want to get down there. That’s when I find the Live View on my Olympus 410 invaluable (actually, only then) – by bending and squinting a bit, I can see well enough to take the photo from actually on the ground if necessary.
May 14th, 2010 at 1:36 pm
I meant to add this link: http://travelskite.blogspot.com/2010/05/pink-is-new-green.html
May 14th, 2010 at 2:41 pm
I can’t physically get down low due to amputations but thats why I bought the Sony A550 that has the tilting Live LCD. I find myself composing alot of shots at waist height now and even lower if I sit on a chair. Good article thanks….love the shots..cheers
May 14th, 2010 at 4:57 pm
Thanks for these tips, they couldn’t have been more timely as I’m planning to take some shots of my friends new Harley at the weekend (providing we can get the time away from our wives and kids
). I love the photos too,what camera & lens did you use and did you do much pp to them (sorry if it is intrusive to ask but I am trying to learn as much as possible)?
May 14th, 2010 at 5:54 pm
Great tips. Thanx
May 14th, 2010 at 5:56 pm
Great Tips. Thanks
May 14th, 2010 at 6:37 pm
An old style fishing basket would help the creaky knees. You can use it to sit on, lever yourself upright from the kneeling position using it as a support and perhaps pack your photo gear and tuck-box in it.
Nice pics and tips. Thank you.
May 14th, 2010 at 7:52 pm
Wonderful Tips. I love all the pics. Thank you
May 14th, 2010 at 10:50 pm
I added Yoga to my “rig” about 15 years ago and it made me a better photographer. I’m able to stay in uncomfortable positions longer, move easier and stand longer, and it helped my sense of balance too. Much more able to concentrate on composition, etc and ‘go’ longer and I’m steadier on slow shots too. I can handhold for .5 sec now:)
May 14th, 2010 at 11:13 pm
Speaking of yoga, a yoga mat (or something similar) would make a good investment – for those down to earth shots. Other items to consider are knee pads and right angle lenses. These should help reduce stress on your body when you get low angle shots. I also enjoy bringing around a reflectorized car sun shade for its versatility. Aside from kneeling or laying down on it so I can get those down and dirty shots, it also serves as a reflector when I’m needing one.
May 15th, 2010 at 2:35 am
i shoot my children and pets all the time, i’ve learned a long time ago that getting down to their level
gives the best results and makes incredible photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amirpaz/4591545071/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amirpaz/4591409093/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amirpaz/4604745860/
May 15th, 2010 at 3:40 am
very nice pelican pics!!!
May 15th, 2010 at 4:21 am
I bought a folding three legged stool at a Goodwill store for a couple bucks. A great inexpensive investment, that works for sitting on and to lean on when arising. It is short and folds flat for easy storage.
I really love it when new photographers get on here and post. I think it is great for us “newbies” to see what others in our position are doing. I just love DPS. Thanks to all those who brave posting, and to Darren for such a helpful site.
May 15th, 2010 at 5:44 am
Good tips, and helpful shots too.
I took a few shots of my friend’s Honda CBR 125 last year, you can see them here:
http://fmatiasphotography.blogspot.com/2009/08/honda-cbr-125r.html
I agree that getting down low helps with the shot, but sometimes its also all about the details.
May 15th, 2010 at 10:15 am
Great compositions but the backgrounds are distracting. Telephoto lense with a wide open aperature would blur the background and make the pictures even better.
May 15th, 2010 at 10:54 am
I enjoyed this article.
May 15th, 2010 at 6:52 pm
Thanks for all the feedback, guys.
Great tips, from kneepads to stools to fishing baskets.
An articulated screen is definitely an asset.
No, I didn’t blur the backgrounds on these pics.
Marian, for 3 kids buzzing around, shoot with an open lens (f/1.8 – 4). It will more likely freeze the action and blur the background.
That’s what I like about this website – you write an article and you learn more about the subject from the responses.
Thanks for the links, pics and examples
Kim
May 16th, 2010 at 7:23 am
Worth mentioning that cars and bikes can look pretty awesome from above too so consider climbing a fire escape or using upstairs window. Interesting close UPS using powerfull zoom also looks great with shallow dof.
For kids make sure to pre-focus particularly on compacts where shutter lag may be a problem. Anticipate movement to get action shots of kids at play. Turn the ISO right up if you don’t have a fast lens as the increase in grain is better than blurry shots. Don’t forget that the more you zoom in the less light your sensor gets to play with and most compacts overcome this by slowing the shutter down which leads to blur
May 17th, 2010 at 12:14 pm
I’d like to get info on the best ways to photograph a black dog. I have been disappointed in the photos I have takem so far. The dogs eyes, nose and face are all deep black. everything blends in and there is no definition to the dogs face. I’d appreciate your advice.
May 20th, 2010 at 6:20 pm
I took a shot of a really cool custom chopper the other day and used the “get down low” technique. It came out really well. Especially contrasted with the ballet school in the background with a shallow depth of field. Great technique!
June 18th, 2010 at 12:50 am
Great article. I wish I had a nickle for all the times I had trouble getting back up off the ground. As you said, the old knees and back arn’t what they use to be. Another thing to use to get down on is on of the childs nap mats. You can find them at Wallieworld in the school supplies before school starts. They are around $10 to $15 and last a long time. It’s a little more padding for the bod. I also like the telephoto lens for up close shots or fast action.
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