How To Control Multiple Flashes Wirelessly With A Canon 7D
Among the features listed on our recent review of the new powerhouse Canon EOS 7D is wireless flash control. Sought after by many photographers, this version 1.0 feature has some useful capabilities thanks to the addition of a popup flash to Canons X D line. Controlling flash ratios, as well as exposure, from the camera can make shoots with multiple flashes far easier. Flashes can further be controlled as individual groups or treated as one large flash.
The system works by using the camera’s pop-up flash as the master, while other Canon EX-Series flashes are set as slaves. In the demonstration below, all remote flashes are set to channel 1 (three channels are possible to prevent misfiring when working around other photographers) and then each flash is assigned group A, B or C. For this simple demonstration, A will be to the left of the model (in this case, the fabulous Groovy Girls car borrowed from my daughter), B will be to the right and C will be behind the car, lighting the background. Let’s take a look at how the controls work.
First, pop up the built in flash by pressing the button located on the front of the camera housing. Here’s the first shot of the Groovy Girls enjoying a ride in their Groovy Car, lit by only the pop-up flash (All images Canon7D, Canon 28-300mm L lens, 1/200sec, f/16, ISO 100). Click on images for a larger version.
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Because the lens is a bit longer than standard there is a slight shadow at the bottom of the image.
Next, press the Menu button and then navigate to the first grouping, scrolling down until you reach “Flash Control”. Press the Set button (center of the rear control wheel)

On the next screen, select Built-in flash func. setting

Now, scroll down to Wireless func. and enable it if it is not already. Select just the center option (while not covered in this article, the other modes allow for inclusion of the pop-up flash’s light either as a ratio or as part of the overall metering)


The menu will return to the previous screen, where additional options will be unlocked. Only functions that may be used with your current setting will be selectable from this point on. Select firing group and Choose the (A:B) option. This selection allows the flashes in group A to be set as a ration to group B, or the other way around.

Notice two items below the Firing Group is A:B fire ratio. Here is what the image looks like when that ratio is set to 1:1 with two flashes spaced equal distances from the subject and slightly in front (with included diffusers and flash bounces utilized).
There’s a little more dimension added to the photo.
Here’s the same scene with a 4:1 A:B ratio (use the rear control wheel to make your ratio selection)

And again, the same scene adjusted to 1:8 A:B ratio

All this is done from the camera with no need to fiddle with the flashes themselves.
Now let’s include a third flash behind the car to light up the background and reduce some shadows (NOTE: this photo is shot inside a light tent so a rear flash on the curved backdrop will cause some added reflection from the top). Go back to the Firing group option and first, selecting (A+B+C), here’s what we get.

In this mode, the camera will attempt to balance the entire scene while using all the flashes. This leaves scenes with a bit too much light on the backdrop. This can be adjusted by reducing the exposure setting for group C, but a better idea is to not include C in the over all ratio. Switching to (A+B C) mode in the Firing group setting means C will not be included in the calculation for A and B lighting the main subject. It is generally understood in this situation that group C will be used to erase shadow from backdrops, although there can be many creative uses for it.


Now let’s adjust the lighting so it’s coming from in front of the car, from flash A.

Lastly, let’s bring down the group C light by 2 stops to lessen the glare, This is done by scrolling down to the Grp C exp. comp.

And the tweaking can go on and on and on. By no means a finished photo, the image could still use some adjustment. My goal with this article was to show how easy it is to adjust remote flashes from the Canon 7D camera body. At the same time it must also be said that going back into the menu selection each time to adjust the ratios can be annoying. Canon could do with adding a shortcut directly to the adjustments.
For a first attempt at this wireless flash control feature, I’d say Canon has done a decent job. They have made it useful for a photographer to use the creativity multiple flashes can bring to a shoot. On top of that, multiple flashes may be used within a group. Add in some color gels to the flashes and your own inventiveness starts to become your only limit.




40 Responses to “How To Control Multiple Flashes Wirelessly With A Canon 7D” - Add Yours
February 16th, 2010 at 7:51 am
Wow! It only took Canon 6.5 years to match Nikon’s in-camera control for CLS! Well, better late than never, Canon
February 16th, 2010 at 7:56 am
That seems horribly complicated.
February 16th, 2010 at 8:25 am
Think I need to read that a few times….
February 16th, 2010 at 12:20 pm
You did leave out the full manual control you get over all three flash units when you put the mode from ETTL to MANUAL. When you shoot in manual mode, you have full control of the output of each flash from 1/1 down to 1/128 (1/64 if you’re using the 430EX). It’s very convenient and most strobists will usually work in manual mode anyway.
However, as a current 7D owner myself, I wish Canon would have chosen a different auto-focus assist other than strobing the on board flash. I find I get a lot of shots where my subjects are squinting because the rapid strobing bothers them. I know other cameras do this too but I’ve always used a hot shoe flash and never needed to have the on board flash raised until I tried the 7D’s remote capabilities. So now I usually disable the on board focus assist and make the auto focus system work overtime.
February 16th, 2010 at 12:22 pm
@Danferno
Actually it isn’t. Once you play with it for a minute you’ll realize it’s pretty easy. I guess it’s just one of those things you have to “do” to understand completely.
February 16th, 2010 at 12:34 pm
And one more FYI… Most recent Canon EOS cameras (50D, 5DMKII, etc) and the PowerShot (G10, G11) have the same wireless capabilities built into them as the 7D. So what’s the difference? With those cameras, you either have to have a Speedlite 580EX (II) or STE2 Speedlite transmitter attached to the hot she to act as the master. All the 7D adds it the built in ability to be the master. But when I attach my 580EX II to my 50D, I can access all the same wireless options as the 7D has. (The PowerShots have “basically” the same functionality but they don’t have as many options as the EOS line.)
February 16th, 2010 at 7:27 pm
@Dean S: you described exactly what is the difference. Instead of using a 580EX on your camera as the master, you can take it off your camera and use it as an extra off-axis light source. For me personally that meant having 3 instead of 2 off-camera light sources, and that makes a big difference.
I’ve used the 7D’s master capability in a photoshoot this weekend. On the forum you’ll find my post how I took it: Bloody Marit (the blood is fake, don’t worry):
(PS: sorry if this is a repost, I’m retrying because my first post wouldn’t show up)
February 16th, 2010 at 10:18 pm
Can the 7D do high sync speed?
February 16th, 2010 at 11:16 pm
@hfng – Yes, as does all of Canon’s recent cameras and flash units.
February 16th, 2010 at 11:23 pm
Thanks Dean! I had the impression that the only way to do off camera HSS was to get a cord or ST-E2 or use an on camera 580EX II to trigger an off camera 580 EX II.
So 7D would basically make the ST-E2 redundant.
February 16th, 2010 at 11:28 pm
Yes, except like I mentioned before, I don’t like the stobing focus assist the 7D has. I’d almost want to still get the ST-E2 just for its red-led focus assist. It’s less distracting to live subjects.
February 17th, 2010 at 2:16 am
@Dean S: you can simply turn off the strobing of the popup flash in the camera, and help it by other means, like ensuring there is enough available light, or focus manually.
February 17th, 2010 at 2:29 am
@Sybren: Yea I know… I think I mentioned that already.
February 17th, 2010 at 3:18 am
Do the flashes have to have line of sight? Will it work outdoors?
February 17th, 2010 at 3:38 am
@chet: they have to see the light coming from your master flash. It doesn’t have to be a direct line of sight if you can reflect the light around. Inside it works just fine if you have white walls, outside you may have to get more creative. I used some aluminium foil to let the strobes “look” around the corner.
February 17th, 2010 at 4:03 am
@Sybren: Thanks for the reply. By far, I don’t think PWs will be out. However it’ll be really cool to have an off camera option for an even simpler and smaller kit. Grab your camera, grab your flash and go. No extra batteries or antennas to worry about. Nice. Wouldn’t it be cool if they add this to the g series?
February 17th, 2010 at 5:40 am
BooYA! Impecible timing. Just got my 7D 1 week ago today and while I did have it set up for 1 wireless flash but wasnt sure how to do Multiple Flashes Wirelessly. The manual is a little bit confusing. It’s doable with the manual but this article made the thought process so much easier for multiple flashes (when I aquire them)
February 17th, 2010 at 7:48 am
I don’t know…. being the kind of camera (semi pro), one would think that if you own this kind of equipment you would know how to use it.
It’s like a person would assume that you know what aperture is if you own a Nikon D3X…
February 17th, 2010 at 8:08 am
@Willie Coyote – You have no idea how many people I know who think they can “buy” better picture taking capabilities. I know a woman (soccer mom type) who bought a 7D thinking she could take great pictures with it. And while she’s partially correct, the 7D will take better pictures than a small $150 point & shoot, but you still have to have the talent to use a camera like the 7D. Because if you don’t have the talent, then the 7D is nothing more than a really expensive point & shoot camera (or any expensive camera for that matter). I’ve actually seen some of the pictures she’s taken with her 7D, and while I’m not trying to say I’m the best photographer, I have seen better pictures come out of my $500 G10 than she’s taken with her $2700 7D (she bought a $1000 lens with it). In fact, I’d be willing to bet that if I go look at her 7D right now, the mode dial will be on the Green Square (a mode most photographers would never dream of touching).
February 18th, 2010 at 2:45 am
Hi there,CAN SOMEONE HELP.
Ive got a new 7D think its fab,but im new to the SLR.
WHEN I WORK IN ‘P’ MODE THE BRIGHTNESS IS FAR TOO HIGH.
How do i get it back to normal
HELP!!
February 18th, 2010 at 3:43 am
Thanks for the tutorial! Does this work with Nikon Speedlights as well? I have a SB-900, but I just bought a 7D and I’m just curious if they’re compatible…
February 18th, 2010 at 9:32 pm
@Kirsty: this is hardly the place for such a question, try the forum, there are plenty of knowledgeable people there.
@Dominic: they are more-or-less compatible. Set the pop-up flash of the 7D to manual, and set your SB-900 to SU-4 (dumb slave) mode.
February 19th, 2010 at 2:36 am
Okay, I’ll have to give that a shot! Thanks!
February 19th, 2010 at 3:10 am
Thank you! you made the manual easier to understand w/ the pictures and going through it like you did :_D
December 22nd, 2010 at 9:34 pm
Hello.
I have a 7D and a 430EXII flash. Now I would like to try to use remotely 2 flash units but I don’t want to spend more 220Eur on another 430. Is there any cheaper flash unit that I can also control remotely with the 7D?
Thanks.
December 24th, 2010 at 2:43 pm
Unfortunately no… The 430 and 580 are the only Canon flash units that can be controlled remotely by the 7D.
December 25th, 2010 at 6:07 am
Actually, here is a link to a dumb slave flash that is triggered from your 7D’s flash just like your 430: http://www.adorama.com/FABD.html
I have a 580 EXII and two of these slaves. I haven’t had a chance to try a whole lot of set ups with them yet, but I know the slaves work in conjunction with the 580 and the slaves are triggered by your on-camera flash just like your Canon Speedlite. And it’s nice that these units are only $17 a piece. They are a little cheaply built, but they’re also very inexpensive.
Hope this helps!
December 25th, 2010 at 6:08 am
Actually, here is a link to a dumb slave flash that is triggered from your 7D’s flash just like your 430: http://www.adorama.com/FABD.html
I have a 580 EXII and two of these slaves. I haven’t had a chance to try a whole lot of set ups with them yet, but I know the slaves work in conjunction with the 580 and the slaves are triggered by your on-camera flash just like your Canon Speedlite. And it’s nice that these units are only $17 a piece. They are a little cheaply built, but they’re also very inexpensive.
Hope this helps!
December 25th, 2010 at 7:37 am
Yea but they seem to be triggered only by the flash burst using a photocell to detect when the master flash goes off. It also doesn’t look like their output can be controlled either. With the canon system, all the ETTL information is transmitted wirelessly (via IR) to the remote flash units and each flash unit’s output can be controlled independently from right inside the camera’s menus (I think 40D and later though). If you have a camera earlier than the 40D then all the remote units can be controlled independently from within the a 580 flash unit’s controls. I do it all the time with my 50D and 7D, I can be 50 feet away from my remote units and change their output from within the camera on the fly. It’s a really ingenious system (all be it, a little expensive though).
April 14th, 2011 at 7:21 am
I’m a bit late to the game but if anyone is still tracking this post I’d appreciate an answer for the following question.
Is there any way, with the 7D, to trigger the off camera flash WITHOUT using the pop-up flash?
Cheers
Paul
April 15th, 2011 at 7:11 am
Paul,
Absolutley.
Use a radio trigger.
Cactus (Gadget Infinity), Radio Poppers, Pocket Wizards just to name a few…
Transmitter sits in the hot shoe, recievers on the strobe. Viola’
April 15th, 2011 at 8:44 am
Hi Darin
Thanks – I’ll carry on using the Elinchrom units I have then! So close Canon yet so far
Paul
April 27th, 2011 at 6:39 am
Nice tutorial…Thanks for posting it.
But I do Have a question or two. You stated that you were using the 7D’s pop-up and wireless feature to control your EX off-shoes. Isn’t the wireless feature on the 7D an IR or Optical trigger? How were you able to communicate with the flash that was behind the subject if it was out of “line-of-sight”? Also, You didn’t mention which EX flashes you were using?
April 27th, 2011 at 12:48 pm
Martin,
The Canon 7D uses the pop-up flash to control the external flashes, relying on visible light from the flash and not IR. That’s how it’s able to trigger flashes out of sight or physically blocked.
I was using a 420EX, 580EX and 580EX II.
November 24th, 2011 at 9:05 pm
Great tutorial but an unrelated question if I may please.
How did you get the pictures of the various menus from the back of the camera? Did you just shoot them or there is some special trick akin to capturing a screenshot. Any help would be greatly appreciated
January 26th, 2012 at 1:44 pm
I have 1 question:
is the 7d internal wireless trigger not sensitive enough during outdoor especially?
I have been trying to shoot with 2 units of 580Ex2 with 7d for outdoor portrait, 1 on the left and 1 at the back of the subject but it seems cannot be triggered sometimes, not stable and sometimes it flashes but sometimes it cannot be flashed.
Hope you guys can help me , is there any ways to solve this? or the speedlight need to face each others when detecting the trigger?
January 28th, 2012 at 1:10 am
Steevn,
Let me see if I can help you on this one. Anyone else feel free to jump in and correct me if I am wrong.
The 7d infared wireless trigger (or any infared trigger for that matter) is not meant to be used in direct sunlight. If you are using it on a somewhat cloudy day you might see improvements but dont expect too much from it if you have ample amounts of natural light. Also infared is not meant to go very far. I think 5-6 feet is right around where it starts losing it effectiveness.
So your alternatives to that…..
At the most expensive end is PocketWizards. (Radio frequency is your friend – Espically if you do a lot of outdoor portrait work and you need consistency in your flash) Also with ETTL capability.
Next level down (but still quite expensive) is Radio Poppers. (again Radio frequency) Also with ETTL.
Then all the way at the bottom of the expensive ladder is Gadget Infinity Cactus V4′s or V6′s. I have the V4′s (also Radio). While these are a lot less expensive than the other 2 mentioned above there are a few drawbacks to these. No ETTL. Everything is Manual (which isn’t all bad since you get more consistentcy in your flash). They are pretty cheap looking, which is what you might expect for $60 wireless triggers. And you do get an occassional misfire or two. But no problems with sunlight since it’s not infared.
I don’t use them a whole lot so I couldn’t justifiy the $400-500 price tag on the Pocket Wizards.
For $60-$70 the Cactus V4′s or V6′s might be worth a shot for you!
January 29th, 2012 at 8:27 am
Actually the 7d doesn’t use infrared due to the limits of it, it use the onboard pop up flash to communicate with the slaves but the wireless ‘eye’ of the slave must be facing the cameras pop up to communicate properly. Some cheaper slave flashes are the yongnuo 565 which can be used with the 580ex ii as long as the 580 is the master.
January 30th, 2012 at 1:36 am
@JackSparrow: the popup flash also emits IR, and it’s that part of the spectrum that’s picked up by the “eye” of the slave.
January 30th, 2012 at 6:43 pm
I stand corrected
but you should? be able to get 8-10 mtrs on the ir for the 580ex ii outside and 10-15 inside.
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