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	<title>Comments on: 13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits</title>
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	<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits</link>
	<description>Discover how to use your digital camera with our Digital Photography Tips. We are a community of photographers of all experience levels who come together to learn, share and grow in our understanding of photography.</description>
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		<title>By: Patuch</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-250410</link>
		<dc:creator>Patuch</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 19:56:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-250410</guid>
		<description>This was an informative web page. I liked the tips so I copied them for my own photography &quot;things to remember&quot;.

I started shooting just over a year ago. I&#039;ve had two classes and there&#039;s a studio class coming up next month. I bought lots of things; flashes, lenses 2 bodies, backdrop and many other photo related things. I&#039;m sure anyone who is in this hobby knows what I&#039;m talking about. It can get endless.

I have good lenses so now it&#039;s just learning how to utilize them best. Five of them are all 2.8 aperture and I have the Nifty Fifty which I need to start using more. I got caught up with the other focal lengths and forgot how great of a lens it is. 

I&#039;ve been shooting portraits with my 70-200 but I think I need to get the 50mm involved more after reading the things written here. It&#039;s great having people who post informative and knowledgeable lessons learned for all of us to shoot by.

The comments are good too.

Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This was an informative web page. I liked the tips so I copied them for my own photography &#8220;things to remember&#8221;.</p>
<p>I started shooting just over a year ago. I&#8217;ve had two classes and there&#8217;s a studio class coming up next month. I bought lots of things; flashes, lenses 2 bodies, backdrop and many other photo related things. I&#8217;m sure anyone who is in this hobby knows what I&#8217;m talking about. It can get endless.</p>
<p>I have good lenses so now it&#8217;s just learning how to utilize them best. Five of them are all 2.8 aperture and I have the Nifty Fifty which I need to start using more. I got caught up with the other focal lengths and forgot how great of a lens it is. </p>
<p>I&#8217;ve been shooting portraits with my 70-200 but I think I need to get the 50mm involved more after reading the things written here. It&#8217;s great having people who post informative and knowledgeable lessons learned for all of us to shoot by.</p>
<p>The comments are good too.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Pilgrim Photographer</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-244137</link>
		<dc:creator>Pilgrim Photographer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Dec 2011 12:45:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-244137</guid>
		<description>Thanks for another useful article!!!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for another useful article!!!!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: kimchanvibol</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-235110</link>
		<dc:creator>kimchanvibol</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Dec 2011 02:58:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-235110</guid>
		<description>hi brother and sister may i ask u some question? when i used ef 50m 1.8 II and ef 50m 1.4 got back and front focus problems, but for telephoto len look no problem. i wonder so much please help me. y my camera or len problem? how to solve it?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi brother and sister may i ask u some question? when i used ef 50m 1.8 II and ef 50m 1.4 got back and front focus problems, but for telephoto len look no problem. i wonder so much please help me. y my camera or len problem? how to solve it?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: sally</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-232374</link>
		<dc:creator>sally</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Dec 2011 23:22:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-232374</guid>
		<description>Kathleen you are my hero!!! LOL, seriously your explanation just now is the culmination of months of me trying to &quot;get it&quot; in how the relationship works between ISO, shutterspeed and Fstop! I&#039;m passionate about photography and might even make it a business someday. I&#039;ve gotten by on some basic understanding and mad photoshop skills, lol, but I know if I can just have better control over my camera I could be unstoppable because of my love and passion for the art. Your quick post has changed things for me and I&#039;m so thankful for your willingness to share your knowledge with us!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kathleen you are my hero!!! LOL, seriously your explanation just now is the culmination of months of me trying to &#8220;get it&#8221; in how the relationship works between ISO, shutterspeed and Fstop! I&#8217;m passionate about photography and might even make it a business someday. I&#8217;ve gotten by on some basic understanding and mad photoshop skills, lol, but I know if I can just have better control over my camera I could be unstoppable because of my love and passion for the art. Your quick post has changed things for me and I&#8217;m so thankful for your willingness to share your knowledge with us!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Kathleen Krueger</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-216158</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Krueger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Oct 2011 17:51:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-216158</guid>
		<description>Hillary, You can use a higher number for the f-stop to get a greater depth of field. You must increase you lighting by decreasing your shutter speed or increasing your ISO to balance the lighting.  This may be more detail than you would like but it is a recipe for perfect lighting. 

ISO (film speed or sensitivity) + shutter speed + f-stop (the size of the opening of the lens)  = perfect lighting 

The higher the ISO number the &quot;faster&quot; the sensor responds to light so the less light it needs But it will also will be more grainy because it isn&#039;t using every bit of the surface of the sensor as effectively as a lower ISO.

The higher the number of the shutter speed the faster the shutter opens and closes and the less amount of light it lets in. Higher shutter speeds allow you to &quot;stop&quot; action while slower speed may need a tripod to keep them from becoming blurry due to hand shake. Shutter speeds are a measurement of time the higher speeds which usually read 250, 500, 1000... are actually fractions of a second. So, 250 is 1/250 of a second, which means the sensor only sees the image for 1/250 of a second and light only hits the sensor for  1/250 of a second.  

(Side note: I was taught that you should avoid hand holding the camera when the lens is larger in mm than the time of the shutter speed you are using. If you are using a 250mm lens you should not hand hold the camera with a slower shutter speed than 250 because of hand shake blur. A 60mm lens can be hand held at a shutter speed of 60 or above and should still have a sharp image.) I don&#039;t typically use a shutter speed below 45 without a tripod no matter the lens size because I just can&#039;t hold that sill. Even at 45 I try to find a place to prop and shoot at the end of the exhale. 

F-stop is a fraction measurement for the opening of the lens which confuses people very easily because the higher the f number the smaller the opening f16 would be 1/16, were f2 would be 1/2 which is a larger opening than 1/16. Now that I&#039;ve said that, I can explain how the opening works. The very center of the lens is the most focused part of the lens when the lens is wide open (wide open means the f-stop is the lowest  &quot;f&quot; number) then the edges of the lens are not going to be in as sharp of focus as the center (lenses are curved --- think about how glasses work). If you use a f-stop that is higher, like f16 then you are blocking off the edges of the lens because you have closed down the aperture (opening) of the lens. This means that the image the sensor sees is limited to the center of the lens and the more focused area of the lens. It is not cropping your image it is only limiting the part of the lens you use to see the image.   Because you are closing down the aperture, which increases focus but  makes the hole smaller, you need to get more light to the sensor either by keeping the shutter open longer (which means slowing down the shutter speed) or increasing the ISO number  (the sensor&#039;s sensitivity to light). 

Adding an additional external light source is necessary when you can&#039;t balance the perfect lighting equation without it .

Hope that helps.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hillary, You can use a higher number for the f-stop to get a greater depth of field. You must increase you lighting by decreasing your shutter speed or increasing your ISO to balance the lighting.  This may be more detail than you would like but it is a recipe for perfect lighting. </p>
<p>ISO (film speed or sensitivity) + shutter speed + f-stop (the size of the opening of the lens)  = perfect lighting </p>
<p>The higher the ISO number the &#8220;faster&#8221; the sensor responds to light so the less light it needs But it will also will be more grainy because it isn&#8217;t using every bit of the surface of the sensor as effectively as a lower ISO.</p>
<p>The higher the number of the shutter speed the faster the shutter opens and closes and the less amount of light it lets in. Higher shutter speeds allow you to &#8220;stop&#8221; action while slower speed may need a tripod to keep them from becoming blurry due to hand shake. Shutter speeds are a measurement of time the higher speeds which usually read 250, 500, 1000&#8230; are actually fractions of a second. So, 250 is 1/250 of a second, which means the sensor only sees the image for 1/250 of a second and light only hits the sensor for  1/250 of a second.  </p>
<p>(Side note: I was taught that you should avoid hand holding the camera when the lens is larger in mm than the time of the shutter speed you are using. If you are using a 250mm lens you should not hand hold the camera with a slower shutter speed than 250 because of hand shake blur. A 60mm lens can be hand held at a shutter speed of 60 or above and should still have a sharp image.) I don&#8217;t typically use a shutter speed below 45 without a tripod no matter the lens size because I just can&#8217;t hold that sill. Even at 45 I try to find a place to prop and shoot at the end of the exhale. </p>
<p>F-stop is a fraction measurement for the opening of the lens which confuses people very easily because the higher the f number the smaller the opening f16 would be 1/16, were f2 would be 1/2 which is a larger opening than 1/16. Now that I&#8217;ve said that, I can explain how the opening works. The very center of the lens is the most focused part of the lens when the lens is wide open (wide open means the f-stop is the lowest  &#8220;f&#8221; number) then the edges of the lens are not going to be in as sharp of focus as the center (lenses are curved &#8212; think about how glasses work). If you use a f-stop that is higher, like f16 then you are blocking off the edges of the lens because you have closed down the aperture (opening) of the lens. This means that the image the sensor sees is limited to the center of the lens and the more focused area of the lens. It is not cropping your image it is only limiting the part of the lens you use to see the image.   Because you are closing down the aperture, which increases focus but  makes the hole smaller, you need to get more light to the sensor either by keeping the shutter open longer (which means slowing down the shutter speed) or increasing the ISO number  (the sensor&#8217;s sensitivity to light). </p>
<p>Adding an additional external light source is necessary when you can&#8217;t balance the perfect lighting equation without it .</p>
<p>Hope that helps.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Hilary VanBrunt</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-215615</link>
		<dc:creator>Hilary VanBrunt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Oct 2011 00:35:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-215615</guid>
		<description>What a great article, Thanks!  I wish I&#039;d had this a year ago when I was starting out.  The last problem I am having trouble getting over is when I DON&quot;T want a shallow depth of field.  When I have a landscape or group and I want everything in focus-I have trouble. I&#039;ve looked into the infinity manual thing and that hasn&#039;t really worked.  I know if I use a higher f-stop, that theoretically should work, right?  Any help will make my life so much easier.  You explained the items in this article so well, I know you can help me out.  Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What a great article, Thanks!  I wish I&#8217;d had this a year ago when I was starting out.  The last problem I am having trouble getting over is when I DON&#8221;T want a shallow depth of field.  When I have a landscape or group and I want everything in focus-I have trouble. I&#8217;ve looked into the infinity manual thing and that hasn&#8217;t really worked.  I know if I use a higher f-stop, that theoretically should work, right?  Any help will make my life so much easier.  You explained the items in this article so well, I know you can help me out.  Thanks!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Sharon mallinson</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-212522</link>
		<dc:creator>Sharon mallinson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Sep 2011 08:59:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-212522</guid>
		<description>Interesting article backed up by fascinating range of comments!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Interesting article backed up by fascinating range of comments!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Sarah</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-203191</link>
		<dc:creator>Sarah</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Aug 2011 21:57:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-203191</guid>
		<description>Folks have already mentioned the problem with &quot;always / never&quot; statements, especially with #4.  But it does help to master and know the &quot;rules&quot; first, then you can break them with confidence.  Also, #9, harsh light or not, shooting directly up someone&#039;s nose is rarely flattering for portraits. I&#039;d use a different image to illustrate that section. Having harsh sun directly in the subject&#039;s eyes (sun behind you) is rarely ever a good idea.  You just need a flash fill when you have the sun as a back light or split light, which looks better IMO.  Oh, be careful advising people to shoot wide open so much.  Too many newbies already shoot everything wide open, and it does not work for every situation.  Some clients might complain that they don&#039;t see the details of the portrait location that you all traveled to.  What&#039;s the point of a location portrait if you can&#039;t tell what the background is in any of the pictures?  Some are okay, but not the entire session.  It also doesn&#039;t work so well with pairs and groups when you need more than one face to be sharp.  Wedding photographers typically have to deal with harsh afternoon light since we rarely have the luxury of shooting the bulk of portraits at more optimal times of day.  Shade is your rule, then developing your favorite techniques out in harsh sun are also important.  Who has time to wait for a passing cloud during wedding portraits? and I&#039;d argue the same goes also for any by-the-hour portrait session.  You think small children have patience to wait for the perfect overcast lighting conditions or that they will be &quot;on&quot; when you are lucky enough to have the perfect cloud passing?  Yeah, right.  You better have several techniques down pat.  You certainly can&#039;t rely on clouds to cooperate.   For weddings, we&#039;re restricted to a limited window of time on the overall wedding day schedule for portraits, so if you&#039;re primarily shooting weddings, coming up with your best practices to work with less than optimal lighting situations during portraits, and throughout the day for that matter, will be paramount for doing good work consistently.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Folks have already mentioned the problem with &#8220;always / never&#8221; statements, especially with #4.  But it does help to master and know the &#8220;rules&#8221; first, then you can break them with confidence.  Also, #9, harsh light or not, shooting directly up someone&#8217;s nose is rarely flattering for portraits. I&#8217;d use a different image to illustrate that section. Having harsh sun directly in the subject&#8217;s eyes (sun behind you) is rarely ever a good idea.  You just need a flash fill when you have the sun as a back light or split light, which looks better IMO.  Oh, be careful advising people to shoot wide open so much.  Too many newbies already shoot everything wide open, and it does not work for every situation.  Some clients might complain that they don&#8217;t see the details of the portrait location that you all traveled to.  What&#8217;s the point of a location portrait if you can&#8217;t tell what the background is in any of the pictures?  Some are okay, but not the entire session.  It also doesn&#8217;t work so well with pairs and groups when you need more than one face to be sharp.  Wedding photographers typically have to deal with harsh afternoon light since we rarely have the luxury of shooting the bulk of portraits at more optimal times of day.  Shade is your rule, then developing your favorite techniques out in harsh sun are also important.  Who has time to wait for a passing cloud during wedding portraits? and I&#8217;d argue the same goes also for any by-the-hour portrait session.  You think small children have patience to wait for the perfect overcast lighting conditions or that they will be &#8220;on&#8221; when you are lucky enough to have the perfect cloud passing?  Yeah, right.  You better have several techniques down pat.  You certainly can&#8217;t rely on clouds to cooperate.   For weddings, we&#8217;re restricted to a limited window of time on the overall wedding day schedule for portraits, so if you&#8217;re primarily shooting weddings, coming up with your best practices to work with less than optimal lighting situations during portraits, and throughout the day for that matter, will be paramount for doing good work consistently.</p>
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		<title>By: RAKESH</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-203114</link>
		<dc:creator>RAKESH</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Aug 2011 13:20:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-203114</guid>
		<description>can we shoot video in macro mode with any dslr cameras ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>can we shoot video in macro mode with any dslr cameras ?</p>
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		<title>By: Ken p</title>
		<link>http://www.digital-photography-school.com/13-tips-for-improving-outdoor-portraits/comment-page-3#comment-201374</link>
		<dc:creator>Ken p</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Aug 2011 06:45:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://digital-photography-school.com/?p=4989#comment-201374</guid>
		<description>One note on white balance: if one is shooting raw then it is not a critical consideration.
Also rather than never shoot in bright sunlight, it can make a pleasing high- key photo as long as the main subject of the portrait is exposed right.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One note on white balance: if one is shooting raw then it is not a critical consideration.<br />
Also rather than never shoot in bright sunlight, it can make a pleasing high- key photo as long as the main subject of the portrait is exposed right.</p>
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